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A California sea lion swimming side-on in green water, its body streamlined, white whiskers, above a rocky bottom where small fish pass

Diving in the Sea of Cortez

Mexico2 dive sites

Season

The Sea of Cortez is at its best from August to November, with water at 27 to 29 °C from August to October. In winter, the water drops to 20 °C, but whale sharks visit the Bay of La Paz. Los Islotes closes to swimming from June to the end of August, during the sea lion breeding season.

Budget

In La Paz, a two-dive day at Espíritu Santo costs US$190, park fees and lunch included, and US$225 for the hammerheads of El Bajo. At Cabo Pulmo, two dives come to MXN 2,800, with MXN 120 of park fees per day on top.

Getting there

La Paz has its own airport and is two hours by road from Los Cabos. Cabo Pulmo is 100 km north of Cabo San Lucas, on a road that ends in a dirt track: leave with a full tank and pesos. French citizens enter without a visa, but a US transit requires an ESTA.

Dive sites in the Sea of Cortez (2)

Dive sites on the map

Why is the Sea of Cortez called the world's aquarium?

Between the Baja California peninsula and the mainland, the Sea of Cortez, or Gulf of California, mixes the temperate waters of the North Pacific with tropical marine life: California sea lions, schools of jacks and snappers, mobulas, hammerheads offshore, whale sharks in the Bay of La Paz in winter, humpback whales and sometimes orcas. The gulf's islands and protected areas have been a World Heritage Site since 2005. You have two bases: La Paz in the north, and Cabo Pulmo, on the east coast of the southern tip.

How do you dive with the sea lions of Los Islotes from La Paz?

The Los Islotes islets, north of Espíritu Santo and 45 minutes by panga from La Paz, are home to a colony of some 300 California sea lions. The pups come and nibble divers' fins between 5 and 15 meters: it is the easiest and most fun dive in the region. The site closes to swimming from June to the end of August, during the breeding season, when the males turn territorial. Two dives at Espíritu Santo cost US$190 at La Paz Divers, park fees included. El Bajo and La Reina, for the hammerheads, cost US$225.

Why dive Cabo Pulmo?

Cabo Pulmo National Park, 100 kilometers north of Cabo San Lucas, was created in 1995 at the request of the village's fishing families. It protects a 20,000-year-old coral reef, the northernmost in the eastern Pacific. In fifteen years without fishing, the fish biomass rose by 462%: tornadoes of jacks, groupers, and bull sharks on the El Vencedor wreck. Two panga dives cost MXN 2,800 at Cabo Pulmo Dive Center, with MXN 120 of park fees per day on top.

When is the best time to dive the Sea of Cortez?

The water drops to 20 °C in winter, sometimes lower, and visibility falls with the plankton. It climbs back to 27 to 29 °C from August to October, and August to November brings the best visibility and the most varied marine life. Whale sharks visit the Bay of La Paz in season. The Rocio del Mar and Quino del Mar liveaboards head up to the islands of the northern gulf in summer.

Where to stay in the Sea of Cortez?

Hotels, apartments and rooms around Cabo Pulmo, the starting point for dives at the Cabo Pulmo reef, with current prices.

Image credits

Photos under free licenses, credited to their author; the link leads to the source.