
Cousteau Reserve (Pigeon Islands)
French West Indies: Guadeloupe and MartiniqueThe Cousteau Reserve surrounds two volcanic islets 1.5 km off Malendure beach in Guadeloupe and has been the marine core of the National Park since 2009.
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You can dive all year, in water from 26.5°C in February to 29°C in September. The dry season, from December to May, brings the clearest water, and you hear humpback whales singing in January and February. From June to November, hurricane season mostly disrupts September.
A guided dive with full gear costs €50 to €58 on both islands, and Les Heures Saines, in Malendure, sells ten dives for €470. At Diamond Rock, budget €64 to €70 per dive. Guadeloupe National Park charges no entry fee.
Air France, Air Caraïbes and Corsair fly nonstop from Paris-Orly to Pointe-à-Pitre and Fort-de-France in 8 hours 30 minutes to 9 hours. A rental car gets you to Malendure, and a ferry shuttle links Fort-de-France to Les Trois-Îlets. French citizens enter with an ID card; other travelers follow the rules of a territory outside Schengen.

The Cousteau Reserve surrounds two volcanic islets 1.5 km off Malendure beach in Guadeloupe and has been the marine core of the National Park since 2009.

Diamond Rock is a 175 m volcanic pinnacle 2 km off the south coast of Martinique, in the current of the Saint Lucia Channel, where you dive a narrow crevice at around 20 m...
Guadeloupe and Martinique are mostly dived on their Caribbean coast, to the west, sheltered from the trade winds. In Guadeloupe, the Cousteau Reserve surrounds the Pigeon Islands, facing Malendure beach in Bouillante. Part of the national park's marine core since 2009, it is the most dived site in France, with about fifteen sites between Bouillante, the islets and Pointe-Noire, from try dives at 6 meters to walls at 40 meters. Les Saintes add the Sec Pâté, a rock that starts at 18 meters, and Petite-Terre and Marie-Galante complete the archipelago. In Martinique, Diamond Rock, a 175-meter volcanic neck 2 kilometers off the south coast, offers a crack at 20 meters and walls down to 60 meters in the current of the Saint Lucia Channel. At Les Anses-d'Arlet, Pointe Burgos and Anse Dufour are calm dives, as is the Nahoon, a three-masted ship scuttled in 1993 at 33 to 36 meters off Cap Salomon. In the north, Îlet la Perle and its pinnacles down to 60 meters have been protected by the Prêcheur marine reserve since 2014. The bay of Saint-Pierre holds the ships sunk on May 8, 1902, by the eruption of Mount Pelée, from the Amélie in less than 10 meters to the Roraima, a steamer over 100 meters long lying beyond 50 meters.
The water stays warm all year: 26.5 to 27°C in February, 29°C in September. The dry season, from December to April or May, brings the flattest sea and the clearest water. It is also whale and dolphin season offshore, and you hear humpback whales singing underwater in January and February. Hurricane season runs from June 1 to November 30: dive centers keep going out, but September brings strong winds, currents and reduced visibility.
In Guadeloupe, a guided dive with full gear costs €50 at Atlantis Plongée and €53 at Les Heures Saines, €45 for unguided divers, €264 to €300 for six dives and €470 for ten. In Martinique, a fun dive costs €50 at Nautitan and €58 at Alpha Plongée, and €49 from the tenth dive. The Diamond Rock trip costs €64 or €70, and a try dive €55 to €70. Divers pay no entry fee in the national park.
Air France, Air Caraïbes and Corsair fly nonstop from Paris-Orly to Pointe-à-Pitre and Fort-de-France in 8 hours 30 minutes to 9 hours. A rental car is essential to reach Malendure. In Martinique, a ferry shuttle links Fort-de-France to Les Trois-Îlets. French and European Union citizens need no visa, and a valid ID is enough. Both islands are outside the Schengen area, so other nationalities should check their entry requirements. Allow 18 to 24 hours without diving before your flight home.
Fun dives require a French Level 1, a PE12 or an Open Water. Dive centers issue FFESSM, ANMP, SSI and PADI certifications and ask for a medical certificate less than a year old. In the marine core of Guadeloupe National Park, anchoring, recreational fishing and any contact with sessile fauna and flora are banned, and the Malendure dive centers ban sunscreen. Diamond Rock is protected by a biotope order: landing is banned, and boats moor on the buoys only.
Hotels, apartments and rooms around Malendure beach, Bouillante, the starting point for dives at the Cousteau Reserve, with current prices.